Southern alps rise above the ocean.
700 A.D.
Possible early settlement on the South Island by an archaic Maori
population originating in Polynesia.
10C
Date of discovery of New Zealand by Polynesian navigator Kupe according to
Maori legend. Islands named Aotearoa, "Land of the Long White Cloud".
12C
Settlement of the North Island.
13 and 14C
"Great Migration" from the Society Islands. Dwindling moa population.
Warrior society established.
1642
Dutch explorer Abel Tasman discovers west coast of the South Island. Dutch
name the country "Nieuw Zeeland" after the Dutch island province of
Zeeland.
1769-70
Captain James Cook circumnavigates and charts both islands, taking
possession of "New Zealand" for Britain.
1820s
First European settlement (in the Bay of Islands).
1830s
Intertribal wars abate due to introduction of musket and wholesale
slaughter.
1840
Treaty of Waitangi signed. Maoris cede sovereignty to Britain, obtain
guarantees of land ownership and "rights and privileges of British
subjects."
1850-1880
"Wool period" with importation of sheep from Australia. Also a period of
war and conflict over land ownership.
1882
Refrigerated ships introduced. Farmers turn to meat and dairy production.
1893
New Zealand becomes the first country in the world to give women the vote.
1907
Independence from UK.
1914-1918
One of every three men between 20 and 40 killed or wounded fighting for
Britain in World War I.
1939
New Zealand sends troops to fight for the Allies in Europe.
1941-45
Threatened by Japan, defended by United States Navy (eventually led to
ANZUS pact in 1951, a defensive alliance with the U.S. and Australia).
1947
New Zealand becomes independent by adopting Statue of Westminster.
1973
Britain joins European Economic Community and adopts their trade barriers
to New Zealand's agricultural products. Combined with high oil prices, this
was enough to devastate the economy.
1973-1984
Robert Muldoon's National Party expands welfare state and government
interventionism, running huge budget deficits financed with overseas money.
High inflation and unemployment cause massive emigration to Australia.
1975
Treaty of Waitangui Act passed to settle Maori land claimson the basis of
original treaty.
1984
New Labour government eliminates agricultural subsidies and wage and price
controls, lowers tax rates, begins a radical program of privatization.
1985
The bombing of the Rainbow Warrior from Greenpeace in Auckland by French
secret service agents. One man was killed (Fernando Pereira).
Economy
Since 1984 the government has been reorienting an agrarian economy
dependent on a guaranteed British market to an open free market economy
that can compete on the global scene. The government had hoped that dynamic
growth would boost real incomes, reduce inflationary pressures, and permit
the expansion of welfare benefits. The results have been mixed: inflation
is down from double-digit levels, but growth has been sluggish and
unemployment, always a highly sensitive issue, has exceeded 10% since May
1991. In 1988, GDP fell by 1%, in 1989 grew by a moderate 2.4%, and was
flat in 1990-91. Current (1994) growth is around 2-4% and rising.
The economy is based on agriculture (particularly dairy products, meat, and
wool (68 m sheep, 2 m dairy cows)), food processing, wood and paper
products, textiles, machinery, transportation equipment, banking and
insurance, tourism, mining. Fish catch reached a record 0.5 m tonnes in
1988. Highly dependent on external trade, New Zealand is currently trying
to move from being a primary to a secondary producer.
Currency
Decimal system based on New Zealand dollar, with cent denominations. Coins
are 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents, 1 and 2 dollars. Notes are 5, 10, 20, 50, and
100 dollars. Major credit cards are accepted widely.
Stockmarket
Same as overseas.
Interest Rates
Fluctuating between 6 and 8% depending on overseas markets.
Taxes
New Zealand operates a Goods and Services Tax of 12.5 per cent on ALL goods
and services sold and this is usually included in the display price. The
exceptions are purchases at duty free shops. Visitors cannot claim refunds
on this tax however when a supplier agrees to export a major item to a
visitors home address then GST will not be charged on the goods or the
freight.
Income tax 24% on first $30,874/year, 33% for every $ above this. There are
various rebates for things like low incomes, children, donations,
Housekeeper, Home/Farm/Vessel Ownbership, and others.
|Government Revenue Source|How it was expected to be |
|(1990) |spent (1990) |
|Income Tax |$16,95|Education |$3,912.|
|Gost and Service |0 |Health |5 |
|Tax |$5,500|Transport |$3,791.|
|Other Direct | |Administration |1 |
|Taxes |$360 |Development of |$711.6 |
|Excise Duties |$1,670|Industry |$2,769.|
|Highway tax | |Government |0 |
|Other Indirect |$670 |Borrowing |$1,231.|
|Tax |$790 |Foreign Relations |3 |
| | |Social Services |$575.1 |
| | | |$1,733.|
| | | |7 |
| | | |$10,292|
| | | |.1 |
|Total |$25,94|Total |$25,016|
| |0 | |.4 |
Life in General
Business Hours
Banks 9:00am to 4:30pm - can vary slightly. Otherwise, Monday to Friday
9:00am to 5:30pm. Late night for shopping is either Thursday or Friday.
Changes to the Shop Trading Hours Act means that most shops are open for
longer hours than this. Almost all are open Saturday morning, many are open
on Sunday with some shops and markets remaining open later during the week.
Automatic teller machines are widely available including a system in many
supermarkets and petrol stations called EFTPOS where you can buy goods with
your card and a PIN number and/or obtain cash. All international credit
cards are accepted in New Zealand. Travellers cheques can be changed in
banks, hotels, stores, etc.
There is no restriction on the amount of foreign currency which may be
brought into or taken from New Zealand. Funds may be in the form of bank
notes, coins, travellers cheques or any other instrument of payment.
Visitors may convert surplus New Zealand currency at any outlet authorised
to deal in foreign exchange.
Events
Some of the noteworthy cultural events include: Summer City Programme
(January to February; Wellington) which is a series of festivals around the
city; Marlborough Food & Wine Festival (2nd week in February; Blenheim);
International Festival of the Arts (February, even-numbered years only;
Wellington), an entire month of national and international culture; Golden
Shears Sheep-Shearing Contest (March; Masterton), a must for lovers of
sheep, scat and sweat; and Canterbury Show Week (November; Christchurch)
which has agricultural exhibits, rides and local entertainment.
Tipping
Tipping is not unheard of in New Zealand. Employed people don't depend on
tips for their income and service charges are not [usually] added to hotel
and restaurant bills. Tip for service if you think it's deserved.
Getting There & Away
The overwhelming majority of visitors arrive by air. There are three
airports that handle international flights: Auckland (the major exit/entry
point), Wellington and Christchurch. Departure tax on international flights
is NZ$20. A few cruise ships visit New Zealand, but there are no regular
passenger ship services and working your way across the Pacific as crew on
a yacht now seems a thing of the past.
Getting Around
Although New Zealand is a compact country and generally easy to get around,
it makes good sense to fly - especially for the views over the mountains or
volcanoes. A variety of discounts also makes flying economical. New Zealand
has two major domestic airlines: Air New Zealand and Ansett New Zealand.
Several smaller airlines - Mt Cook Airline, Eagle Air and Air Nelson - are
partly owned by Air New Zealand and have been grouped together as `Air New
Zealand Link'. This network provides thorough coverage of the country.
New Zealand also has an extensive bus network, with the main operator being
InterCity (servicing both the North Island and South Island). The two other
major bus operators are Newmans (North Island) and Mt Cook Landline (South
Island). Services on main bus routes are frequent (at least once a day);
unfortunately they can be expensive and slow. A good alternative is to use
shuttle bus companies which are smaller, cheaper and friendlier than the
large bus companies. Some of them are designed to cater especially for
foreign travellers and/or backpackers and have lots of little `extras' that
make them particularly attractive; other companies, perhaps drawing on the
experiences of Ken Kesey and his Merry Pranksters, can take you around New
Zealand on `alternative' buses which are often an unhurried way of seeing
the country.
Main train routes are few, though train travel is reasonably quick. Trains
are modern and comfortable, and the fares are sometimes cheaper than those
by bus on the same routes.
Car travel (New Zealanders drive on the left) is recommended as the roads
are good and well signposted and the distances short. Rentals of cars,
motorcycles and campervans are popular with a range of special deals
available.
There are plenty of boat services, including the Interislander ferry
(operating between Wellington in the North Island and Picton in the South
Island.
And finally, there's always cycling around the country. Many travellers
describe New Zealand as a cyclists' paradise: it's clean, green, uncrowded
and unspoiled, and there are plenty of places where you can camp or find
cheap accommodation. Bicycle rental can be daily, weekly or monthly and is
inexpensive.
Crime
While it may be `safe' compared to most other countries, serious crime does
exist here and visitors should take sensible precautions. Always lock your
vehicle, and don't leave it in isolated locations for extended periods.
Avoid leaving valuables visible in the car. Avoid areas/situations which
appear unwholesome. The emergency phone number (police, ambulance, fire) is
111, and ask the operator for the service required (this can be used from
payphones without paying).
Health
New Zealand operates a no-fault accident compensation scheme which covers
residents and visitors. Personal injury through accident entitles the
injured party to compensation for reasonable expenses related to the
accident. Due to abuse, this has been reworked recently and compensation is
far harder to obtain.
Water Supply
New Zealand cities and towns have good public water. Water is safe to drink
out of the tap. The water in Christchurch *is* totally untreated and is
supposed to be the purist domestic water supply in the world...
In bush walking areas giardia has been found so its advisable to check
before drinking from rivers or streams. Boiling water for five minutes or
more is advised where advice is not available.
Communications
Telephone Country Code = 64
The Telephone is similar to British Telecom style. Uses BT 600 plug (not RJ-
11) Phone line is pins 2 and 5 of the BT 600 plug (RJ-11 is pins 3 & 4).
Hotels will have difficulty in converting plugs styles but conversion
cables are available from retailers.
Most New Zealand telephone systems can handle DTMF tone dialling. BEWARE:
New Zealand pulse dialing is the reverse of most countries. The digit are
reversed and so produce different numbers of pulses. The conversion is:
digit | # of Pulses
--------+------------
0 | 10
1 | 9
2 | 8
[.....]
8 | 2
9 | 1
The best solution is to use tone dialing.
Electricity
The normal electricity supply is 230 volts 50 hertz alternating current
(AC).
3 pin appliance socket from a viewpoint looking at the wall or a plug seen
from the inside as one would while wiring it up.
phase ----- / \ ---- neutral
(or live)
| --------- earth
If the wires you have are brown, blue, and green [yellow or white striped],
then; brown = phase, blue = neutral, green = earth. The old code is red,
black, green respectively. If you have ANY doubts, please consult a
qualified electrician.
Most hotels will have shaver plugs suitable for all international appliance
of low power rating, and which will supply 110 and 230 volts. These plugs
may be for shavers only.
TV Information
New Zealand runs on PAL G on UHF. This gives the same picture and sound
spacing (5.5MHz), but the channel spacing is slightly wider - the same as
that used for 6MHz intercarrier spacing. Standard 50 hertz field rate, 25
hertz frame rate. We also use NICAM for stereo tv, rather than one of the
various analogue systems.
In the Southern Hemisphere, the locally-vertical component of the field is
in the opposite direction to where it would be an equivalent distance north
of the equator. This affects the colour convergence of video monitors. It's
not a *huge* difference, and it took computer companies until the late
1980s' to wake up to the difference and ship different monitor versions to
New Zealand, South America, and Australia. Northern hemisphere monitors
*work* but the colours won't be as crisp as you'd expect.
North Island
In ancient Maori mythology, the North Island is Te Ika a Maui (the Fish of
Maui). According to the story, Maui was fishing with his brothers when he
hooked the North Island from the ocean. His ravenous brothers, ignoring
orders not to touch the fish, began gnawing at its flesh, causing the fish
to writhe and thresh about - this frenzy of movement is the reason behind
the island's undulant and mountainous landscape.
There are snow-fringed mountains in the Tongariro National Park,
exclamatory geysers and bubbling mud pools in Rotorua and a profusion of
rivers, lakes and streams. But the North Island is more than rips and
fissures: it has its share of rolling pastures, forest-clad hills and
stretches of long, sandy beaches. It also has New Zealand's two largest
cities - Auckland to the north and the country's capital, Wellington, to
the south - which are focal points for arts and entertainment, historic
buildings, great dining and a variety of accommodation.
Auckland
The largest city in New Zealand, Auckland, is almost enclosed by water and
covered in volcanic hills. Auckland has a spectacular harbour and bridge
(and a fanatical number of yachting enthusiasts) which has earned it the
sobriquet 'City of Sails'. A magnet for the people of the South Pacific
islands, Auckland now has the largest concentration of Polynesians in the
world. Highlights include the Auckland Museum, which houses a memorable
display of Maori artefacts and culture, and Kelly Tarlton's Underwater
World & Antarctic Encounter, a unique simulacrum of ocean and exploration
activities.
There is great shopping in the suburbs of Parnell and Newmarket, well-
preserved Victorian buildings in Devonport, Polynesian handicrafts, cafes,
restaurants and markets in Ponsonby, panoramic views of the city from the
extinct volcano One Tree Hill, and good swimming beaches including
Kohimarama and Mission Bay.
The Hauraki Gulf off Auckland is dotted with islands such as Rangitoto,
Great Barrier and Waiheke, which have affordable accommodation, a number of
walks and diving possibilities and, in the case of Waiheke Island,
excellent art galleries. Auckland is also a good starting-point for
visiting the amazingly scenic Coromandel Peninsula and Hauraki Plains
regions to the south-east.
Northland
Northland is the cradle of both Maori and Pakeha culture: it was here that
the Pakeha first made contact with the Maori, the first whaling settlements
were established and the Treaty of Waitangi was signed. Often referred to
as the 'winterless north' because of its mild year-round temperatures,
Northland has a number of interesting museums (Otamatea Kauri & Pioneer
Museum), glorious, blonde beaches (Ninety Mile Beach) and diving spots
(Poor Knights Islands Marine Reserve, reckoned by Jacques Cousteau to be
among the top 10 diving sites in the world), historic towns (Pahia and
Waitangi), game fishing (Bay of Islands) and flora and fauna reserves
(Waipoua Kauri Forest).
Great Barrier Island
Great Barrier Island at the mouth of the Hauraki Gulf has acres of long,
white sandy beaches on its eastern shore, deep-water sheltered inlets on
its western shore, and a rugged spine of steep ridges running down the
centre. The 80,000 hectare preserve has a number of walking tracks which
combine old logging trails and tramways. Natural hot springs, towering
kauri forests and a serene aura make it a perfect escape. Flights and
ferries operate from Auckland, 88 km south.
Bay of Plenty
The Bay of Plenty, given its name by Captain Cook in 1769 because of the
number of thriving Maori settlements, has a consistently mild climate year-
round, good beaches and is the home of the kiwi fruit - a fuzzy, brown,
sweet-tasting fruit and a major source of export revenue for the region.
The city of Tauranga offers activities such as jet-skiing, water-skiing,
windsurfing, parasailing, diving, surfing, fishing and harbour cruises.
Across the inlet from Tauranga is Mt Maunganui, a popular holiday resort
with beaches and saltwater pools. Rotorua, one of the most visited cities
in New Zealand, is famous for its kinetic thermal activity (Whakarewarewa
is the best known site and the location of Pohutu, an active geyser that
gushes forth every hour), a large and influential Maori population, trout
springs and wildlife parks.
East Cape
The East Cape, as opposed to the Bay of Plenty, is little visited, but its
isolation belies an area endowed with native forest, wild coasts and
picturesque bays, inlets and coves. During the summer, the coastline turns
vermilion with the explosion of flowers from the pohutukawa trees lining
the shores.
Cape Runaway
A succession of picturesque bays leads to Whangaparaoa (Cape Runaway), at
the very tip of the East Cape. The beaches are deeply shelved and littered
with driftwood, and the old Anglican church, nestled under Norfolk pines on
a lone promontory, should not be missed. Cape Runaway can only be reached
by foot and it's advisable to seek permission before going on private land.
Central North Island
Hamilton, New Zealand's largest inland city, is surrounded by some of the
world's richest dairy farming and agricultural regions. It is a city of
museums, zoos and parks, and offers river cruises on the Waikato River, the
country's longest (425 km). Further south is the region of King Country,
once the stronghold of powerful Maori chiefs. The town of Waitomo is famous
for its limestone caves and subterranean black-water rafting (a wetsuit,
caver's helmet, inner tube and abundant courage are all that's required)
while Te Kuiti, named after the belligerent Maori leader Te Kooti, is
recognised as 'the shearing capital of the world'. Even further south is
Taumaranui, which makes a good base for kayaking, rafting and jet-boating
on the Whanganui River.
The west coast region of Taranaki is dominated by Mt Taranaki (also
officially known as Mt Egmont), a dormant volcano rising 2518 metres. Other
highlights in Taranaki include the Egmont National Park and the region's
world-class surfing and windsurfing beaches. New Zealand's largest lake,
and the geographical centre of the North Island, is Lake Taupo. Dotted
around its shores are towns with cheap accommodation and great dining
possibilities (trout is a speciality). Nearby are the spectacular Tongariro
and Whanganui national parks; the former is renowned for its ski slopes
while the latter has several excellent walking tracks and recreational
water activities on the Whanganui River. East of the national parks is the
Art Deco city of Napier, with its splendid weather and beautiful beaches.
Wellington
The capital city of New Zealand, Wellington, is situated on a splendid
harbour at the southern tip of the North Island. Often maligned by its
northern counterparts for its ill-tempered weather - the winds are often of
gale-force calibre in winter - Wellington is a lively city of culture and
arts (with festivals almost every month), and great ethnic restaurants and
cafes. It is also home to the country's government and national treasures.
Buildings of interest include: the modernist Beehive (the executive wing of
Parliament); the old Government Building (one of the largest all-wooden
buildings in the world); the National Library (housing the most
comprehensive collection of books in the country); and the Katherine
Mansfield Memorials (the property where the famous author was born in
1888). In addition, there are museums, a zoo and stunning views of the city
from atop Mt Victoria. Cuba Street has great shopping, Thorndon has
historic sites of interest, Lambton Quay is the primary business street and
Mt Victoria is the place to go for cheap accommodation and dining.
South Island
The South Island crams in glaciers, fiords, turbulent rivers, trout
streams, rainforests, mossy beech forests, palmy beaches and a number of
mountains that top 3000 metres - a repertoire to inspire even the most
sluggish arms, legs and lungs. It's an island where you can fish, paddle,
pedal, raft, hike and walk in some of the most gorgeous scenery on earth.
Most journeys begin in postcard-perfect Picton, where the ferry from the
North Island arrives, or Christchurch, a city under the delusion that it is
somewhere in southern England. From either of these points, you can make
your way to any number of attractions: the labyrinth of tributaries known
as the Marlborough Sounds; nearby Nelson, a city famous for its wines and
succulent seafood; Mount Cook National Park, where New Zealand's tallest
peaks are found; Queenstown, nestled beneath the saw-toothed peaks of The
Remarkables; and, further south, the reserves of podocarp forests and fauna
found in the Catlins. The people, much like the weather and topography, are
robust. The roads are excellent for a self-drive holiday.
Marlborough Sounds
The convoluted waterways of the Marlborough Sounds, formed when the sea
invaded a series of river valleys after the ice ages, are home to bays,
islands and coves. Separated by forested knuckles of land that rise from
the sea, the Sounds are an exhilarating place with activities such as sea
kayaking and white-water rafting and interesting wildlife that includes sea
gannets, tuatara lizards (relics from the dinosaur age), even carnivorous
snails! There are also great walks, including the Queen Charlotte Walkway
(a 58-km track among lush forest) and the Abel Tasman Coastal Track in the
Abel Tasman National Park (220 sq km of beaches, sea coves, forest and
granite gorges).
Wine, good food and a climate conducive to year-round activity are features
of the towns of Nelson, Picton and Blenheim. The crayfish from Kaikoura are
superb but it is a town famous for much larger fry - sperm whales.
Whalewatch and dolphin swimming tours are manifold and inexpensive.
West Coast
Wild, craggy and desolate, the West Coast is an area buffeted by heavy seas
and drenching rain. Keri Hulme, the Booker Prize winner, calls the region
home, drawing inspiration from its 'bleak and ascetical' landscape.
Understandably, those who live here - commonly known as `Coasters' - occupy
a unique place in the national folklore. Activities include canoeing and
riding the rapids down Moeraki River, fishing for brown trout in the lakes,
watching penguins and fur seals lazing on the greenstone beaches, and
squelching through forests (which are much to the liking of the rapacious
ringtail possum).
Harihari
Harihari, a small town on the West Coast, made world headlines in 1931,
when Guy Menzies completed the first solo flight across the Tasman Sea from
Australia. The journey was hassle-free but the landing proved a disaster:
the aircraft overturned in a swamp, and Menzies, on undoing his safety
straps, fell - much to the delight of the cheering locals - head first into
the mud. The town is now known as a base for coastal walks, birdwatching
and trout and salmon fishing.
Westland National Park
The Westland National Park has over 60 glaciers, with the most accessible
being the Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier: you can almost hear the
strangulated groans, tweaks and gurgles as they slowly advance down the
mountainside. The town of Greymouth is the western terminal for the
passenger train TranzAlpine Express, which winds its way over the Southern
Alps - through beech forests, glacial valleys and mountains - on to
Christchurch.
Canterbury
The hub of the South Island, Canterbury is one of the driest and flattest
areas of New Zealand. The predominant feature of the region is the
capacious Canterbury Plains, situated between the coast and the mountain
foothills, which is devoted to farming and agriculture.
Paradoxically, Canterbury contains most of New Zealand's highest mountains
such as Mt Cook and Mt Tasman. The area's major city is Christchurch which
has genteel, sylvan suburbs, up-market eateries and cafes, and is home to
the Wizard, a Rabelaisian figure who dominates lunchtime discussion in
Cathedral Square. Gently steering its course through the city and suburbs
is the ankle-deep, willow-lined Avon River - perfect for punting.
To the east of Christchurch is the feral coastline of Banks Peninsula,
dominated by gnarled volcanic peaks; it is also the location of Lyttelton,
which has excellent arts and crafts stores. A good day trip from
Christchurch is to the Frenchified town of Akaroa which boasts the best
fish & chips in the country. West of Christchurch is the settlement of
Arthurs Pass, which is a great base for tackling walks, climbs and skiing
in Arthurs Pass National Park. To the south lie the picturesque towns of
Geraldine and Fairlie, the high, tussock-grass plateau known as the
Mackenzie Country and the World Heritage Area that is Mt Cook National
Park. The imperious Mt Cook (3755 metres) is the highest peak in
Australasia, and offers plenty of walks and unlimited scope for tramping,
rock climbing, lung-cleansing and sightseeing.
Copland Pass
The gruelling four-day Copland Pass trek in the Mt Cook National Park is a
once-in-a-lifetime adventure that can only be completed in good weather by
well-prepared, experienced teams or with professional guides. The terrain
varies from glaciers and snowfields to rainforest and thermal pools. The
pass is 2150 metres high and is surrounded by dramatic 3000-metre peaks.
This is no stroll and should only be attempted by professional masochists
experienced in the use of ice axes, crampons and alpine route-finding.
Apparently the sense of achievement in crossing the pass entitles you to
enter an elite club of euphoric high-achievers.
Queenstown
Queenstown, set in a glacial valley on the edge of Lake Wakatipu, is a town
synonymous with hairy adventures: parasailing; schussing down icy rapids in
jet boats; white-water rafting; and bungy jumping off Skippers Canyon
Bridge - the latest and most terrifying stunt is plunging 300 metres from a
helicopter.
Fiordland National Park
Fiordland National Park, which takes its name from its glacier-carved
coast, is a wilderness of mountains, ice and beech forests. The scenic
climax of Fiordland is undoubtedly Milford Sound where cruise ships bob toy-
like beneath the shadows of towering mountains and waterfalls. There are
classic alpine walks, including the Routeburn Track (in Mt Aspiring
National Park), the Hollyford Valley and the Milford Track (billed as the
'finest in the world').
Otago Peninsula
Otago Peninsula is a significant wildlife area with woodland gardens,
albatross, penguin and seal colonies, plus aquariums, museums and historic
sites. Dunedin, a student city on the peninsula, is a hub for arts and
entertainment, and is famous for producing an eclectic pool of
internationally successful rock bands. Scottish to its core, the city has a
rich architectural heritage with many museums, galleries and castles.
Southland
There are a series of huge lakes in the area, including Hawea and nearby
Wanaka in Otago, and Lake Te Anau in Southland. Te Anau, gouged out by a
huge glacier, is New Zealand's second largest lake and features caves full
of glow worms, and waterfalls and whirlpools. The Catlins, the largest
remaining area of native forest on the east coast of the South Island, is
between Invercargill and Dunedin. It has reserves of rarefied plants and
trees, plus fauna such as fur seals, sea lions, penguins and ducks.
Stewart Island
New Zealand's third largest island, Stewart Island is an ornithologist's
delight: tuis, parakeets, kakas, bellbirds, fernbirds and robins abound.
The kiwi, rare in both the North and South Island, is common over much of
the island, particularly around beaches. A good network of walking tracks
and huts exist in the northern part of the island but the south is
forgettable, being undeveloped and isolated. The people (a paltry 450 in
all) are hardy, taciturn and suspicious of mainlanders, the weather is
changeable and the accommodation is basic; there are, however, excellent-
value homestays on the island.
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